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Khon Kaen

Khon Kaen is the development and economic hub, as well as the main city of Isaan, the northeast area of Thailand.

The area is off the beaten track and mass tourism is not fully developed. If you want to experience Thailand without the hordes of Europeans, Japanese or backpackers then this place will fit the bill. With it's parks, prehistoric digs, cave paintings and great shopping, Khon Kaen is a good place to do a little sightseeing away from the guided tours. However, if you want guided tours, they are available. A good option is to rent a car and a driver for the day and visit some of the smaller towns in the surrounding countryside. Your hotel or guesthouse should be able to arrange it.

That said, Khon Kaen is a university city so there are lots of restaurants and some nightlife. Isaan food is very tasty, especially the sausages.

Bueng Kaen Nakhon: is a large and clean body of water at the southern end of the city. It is a popular place for the locals to relax and have a meal in one of the restaurants.

Hong Mun Mang (Khon Kaen City Museum): Located by Bueng Kaen Nakhon. A Hong is a treasure tower so Hong Mun Mang is a tower where the historical treasures of Khon Kaen are preserved. The museum shows how the local people lived throught Khon Kaen's history.
The museum is organized into 5 zones:

Open Tues-Sun 12-8pm. Baht 90.

National Museum: The Museum's excellent collection reflects the area's history, art, and archaeology dating back more than 5000 years. This is a great low-key museum where you can gain some insight to the area's culture. Located on Lung-Soonratchakan Road. Open daily 9-4. Baht 30.

Chonnabot Silks: The town of Chonnabot, 54 km to the southwest, is famous for it's silk weaving. Stop by a workshop and watch the women spin, dye and weave silk. You can buy the finished product and well made cotton garments. There are a number of other villages near Khon Kaen that have fine silk.

Ban Khok Sanga King Cobras Village: 50 km north of Khon Kaen, there is a village that has a pet king cobra in every house. The villagers earn money traveling and performing snake shows and selling locally made herbal medicines. There is a snake show in the local Wat.

Silk Phuk Sieo Fair: Held annually in late November or early December, this 7 day fair can be found in front of city hall and in Ratchadanusorn Park. There is a Miss Silk parade and entertainment as well as exhibitions on the production of silk products.

Phra That Kham Kaen: This chedi (reliquary tower) situated in Wat Chetiyaphum, 30 km to the northeast, is Khon Kaen's biggest historical site. Legend has it that some monks spent the night here beside a dead tamarind tree while carrying relics of the Lord Buddha. On their way home, they found that the tamarind tree was in full bloom. They built a pagoda in the spot and named it Phra That Kham Kaen (stupa of tamarind heartwood). Khon Kaen's name was derived from it. Take one of the frequent songthaews from the bus terminal.

Scientific Centre for Education: The centre, located 40 km south is for students and children to learn about science and technology. There is a section dedicated to Prof. Dr. Princess Chulabhorn. There is also a room featuring dinosaurs and fossils. Open Mon-Fri 8:30-4:30.

Sala Mai Thai: Located 65 km south in the Khon Kaen Vocational College. Sala Mai Thai was established to further Her Majesty's mission to conserve traditions and promote silk and silk products from Isaan. The centre features all forms of silk production from dyeing to weaving as well as showcasing tools and rare equipment used in these processes. There are also some ancient silk textiles and an exhibit of mut mee (high quality tie-dyed hand woven) silk textiles from Chonnabot. Open Mon-Fri, 8:30-4:30.

Chang Kra: If you are in Khon Kaen in January or February this 60 km drive to the south will be worth it. At Wat Pa Mancha Khiri, there are hundreds of trees with thousands of wild orchids blooming from their branches. They have grown wild for over 100 years. Take highway 2062 south through Amphoe Phra Yuen.

Horse Racing: Racing is held every Saturday and Sunday except on holidays at The Khon Kaen Horse Racing Track. Located on Mittraphrap Road. Racing is from 12-6pm.

Tortoise Village: The tortoises are cool but the place is rather depressing. Definitely a place to skip.

Art and Cultural Centre: Part of Khon Kaen University, this Isaan barn shaped building features displays of local arts, history and geography. Interesting place. While here, you can check out the university.

Prem Tinsulanonda Military Fort and Hall of Honour: The Hall of Honour showcases the achievements former Prime Minister, General Prem Tinsulanonda. He is one of the few politicians who was not tainted by corruption. He is a true Thai patriot who has done great things for his country. Contact the Fort at: 0 4324 9490.

Markets: As always, the night market is a good bet for a cheap tasty meal. Located next to the bus terminal, there are plenty of stalls selling anything you could possibly want to eat. If you can't find what you want then ask someone and they will find it for you. There is a regular day market with fruit, meat, fish, veggies and many other things. It is a neat way to spend a morning.

Phu Kao-Phu Phan Kham: Take highwas 2 north for 30 km and then take 2109 west for another 30 km or so until you get to the Ubonrat Dam. No onsite accommodations but they rent tents or you can stay in a nearby guesthouse. Here you can take a jungle trek, see some ancient cave paintings or go out in a boat. The Nam Phong National Park covers the waters and shoreline surrounding the Ubonrat Dam. There are beaches here where you can swim and do some watersports as well as dine on locally caught fish. Accommodations on site. Phone +66 2562 0760 to reserve. I was only at the dam but didn't know which park it belonged to.

Lam Pao Dam: This dam is built across the Lam Pao and Huay Yang Rivers and is 80 km East of Khon Kaen. The large man made lake is quite beautiful. There is supposed to be a zoo along the banks but we never found it.

Phu Wiang Nationl Park: This decent sized park is 60 km west of Khon Kaen. It is surrounded by mountains and is a great place to go for a hike. There are a couple of waterfalls, a Buddha image carved on the face of a steep hill dating from the Dvaravati period (600-900 AD) and the Phuviang Museum which exhibits skeletons, fossils and footprints of dinosaurs. Take highway 12 west for 55 km and look for signs. Accommodations on site. Phone +66 2562 0760 to reserve.